It’s rare to meet a young person who’s fired up about the state of Iowa—one so interested in exploring it, absorbing it, and sharing it that he’d commit himself to an athletic Iowan quest that will consume years of his life.
Every Saturday, and sometimes even weekdays after work, 37-year-old Tyler Sullivan launches himself into a new Iowa place … for a good run and a lot of local culture.
A North Liberty/Iowa City native, Tyler was headed down to Jefferson County last month to scope out the Maasdam Barns in Fairfield. I sat with him on a park bench to learn more about his adventures, and about how—and why—he decided to undertake this self-appointed challenge. Like so many things in life, the journey began with romance.
In 2015, Tyler had a girlfriend who lived in Mason City. For fun, they began exploring the counties lying somewhere in between—like Chickasaw, or Bremer—occasionally venturing much further out to visit spots like the swinging bridge in Louisa County, or to check out the rodeo at the Lee County Fair. Though the relationship ended, Tyler’s passion for learning about Iowa was only just beginning. Scouring various county and museum websites, he also began combing through the stacks of tourism brochures he’d collected from Iowa Welcome Centers, advertising places of interest, county by county. “I began to study them,” he tells me. And he began to visit them. All 99 counties.
Run the Cities
“I was about 65 counties in when one of my running friends said, ‘Have you ever thought about running these cities you’re visiting?’ ” Initially, the idea seemed laughable, but Tyler started to get excited about the prospect, piecing together how he might participate in local road races or visit local festivals. At the very least, he decided, he’d “run a mile in each city, based on the population. It sounded like fun,” he tells me.
“Wait,” I stopped him. “When you say ‘city,’ are you just talking about places of a certain population? Or are you literally talking about every town in Iowa?”
“All of them,” he says. “Every place marked on the Iowa road map.” And then some, as it turns out. “Even if I find a sign for a ghost town? I will run it.” When we sat down together in early August, Tyler had run through 1,298 towns—already more than are “incorporated” on the Iowa map. Let that sink in for a minute.
“Iowa is consuming my life!” he jokes. “My traveling. This hobby. And I love it. Every day I’m researching somewhere to go.” And somewhere new to run.
Tyler fell madly in love with distance running in high school, profoundly inspired by his cross country and boys track coach, local legend Bob Brown. “An amazing man,” says Tyler. Of Tyler’s two published books thus far, his second book is about Coach Brown. “I ran because of Coach. He believed in me more than I believed in myself. And I do a lot of thinking when I run.” Tyler has completed eight marathons. That’s a lot of thinking.
Sullivan began “running the cities” six years ago, in 2019. You can find a vivid photographic record of this journey on his Facebook page, “Iowa Scenic Views By Foot.” I joke with him about how the webpage, chock-full of scenic-view selfies, also tells a fantastic six-year story about Tyler Sullivan’s hair. A lion’s mane. One hundred percent natural. Entirely unforgettable.
Poetry in Motion
In 2020, because apparently the run-every-town-in-Iowa challenge wasn’t big enough, Tyler added another element to his expeditions, and began writing poetry. His goal was to pen at least one poem for each Iowa county—though by now he’s written far more.
“When did you get into writing?” I ask.
While the poem part of the project was initially something his mentor had suggested, Tyler tells me, “Poetry started when I had a crush on a woman.”
“Of course it did,” I laugh.
“I never shared it with her, and now she’s married and has a kid. It’s fine,” he jokes.
These days, Tyler’s poetry is inspired by his favorite tree, the sugar maple on the banks of Lake McBride he likes to photograph every day. And by a set of sunset-perfect railroad tracks. And, of course, by the curious things he encounters on his Saturday travels—like the Bonnie & Clyde shootout site in Dexfield Park, Dallas County, or the barking dogs who announced his arrival in Harvey, Iowa.
They are excited to see me since they know what’s up
Doesn’t happen often but there are times when they join me
along for a few blocks
Being playful, running beside me
Their bark is their way of reminding me
to check out the hidden gem on the other side of town …
Tyler Sullivan. Athlete. Poet. Dog whisperer.
Museum Mission
Tyler’s journeys aren’t just about the runs, or the pictures, or the poems. He takes time nearly everywhere he goes to tour area museums, parks, and historical points of interest. Scroll through his feed—or flip through one of his nine (!) books when they’re off the press—and you’ll get a taste of the hundreds of visited libraries; historical homes and cabins; museums housing Iowa artifacts or unusual collections like salt and pepper shakers or vintage lunch boxes; or sites marking burial mounds, tragedies, or birthplaces—including the birthplace of Iowa 4-H; even the kaleidoscope factory over in Pocahontas County. (Did you know we have a Pocahontas County??)
“I especially like going to county historical museums to see some of the old pictures of these towns,” says Tyler, “but what fascinates me, probably as an athlete, is what were some of the former mascots of the schools before the districts consolidated. My books will showcase, region by region, the museums, courthouses, freedom rocks, schools and their former and current mascots, a poem for every county, and a backstory about what I did there.” Sullivan’s first book documenting the Iowa places he’s visited will be released this fall by CC Publishing in Sigourney, Iowa.
Tyler worries about the future of some of these lesser-known museums he considers to be precious—and fundamental—to our state’s heritage. “Sometimes we don’t realize how much cool stuff we have nearby until it’s gone. I went to the Pioneer Museum three weeks ago down in Ellston. Richard Swanson, who opened up the museum for me, is 91 years old. He was basically in tears. I was the first visitor in three years to actually tour that museum. And it was wonderful! It had a shed that held old farming equipment—push a button and you can see how some of the equipment actually works.” The Ellston Pioneer Museum also features the restored Cornwall Pioneer Home, a rural school, and the National Old Thresherman’s Hall of Fame. There’s a strong chance the museum will close for good this year.
“I spent three hours with that 91-year-old man. He loved every minute of it. I loved every minute of it.”
Tyler visited 156 Iowa museums last year. But he’s clearly feeling the urgency to seize the day and spread the word. This year, he’s challenged himself to see another 250.
“Coach never cared about the winning, he never cared about the losing, it was about giving your best every single day, and the winning will take care of itself. That’s why in these super small cities—I still give them my best effort—people live there, why should I cut them out?
“With everything that people talk about—like there’s nothing to do in these small towns—that’s one thing I recommend. Go see the things in your own community, go to these museums, support these small businesses!”
The Gifts of a Six-Year Run
The rewards of this endeavor, for Tyler, have come in many forms: Some of Iowa’s most beautiful scenery on foot. The local lore that infuses his poems. Discoveries of Iowa innovation. Inspiring others to learn more about their home state. But if you ask him what the biggest gift of this challenge has been, he’ll tell you that it’s “meeting wonderful people. Hearing people’s stories. Everyone has a story to tell.”
The bounty keeps coming. After his recent visit to Ellston, the Pioneer Museum sent Tyler a keepsake ball cap to thank him for coming, along with a few pads of paper and pens for all the writing he does. Tyler recently shared his story with a woman he met in Murray, Clark County, and after giving him a tour of her local schoolhouse—she also gifted him a handmade quilt. “I literally cried,” he says.
In Aurelia, Tyler received a 25-pound custom-made cardinal sculpture smithed by Denny Allen. (Tyler’s first book, dedicated to his late grandparents, is about the symbolism of the cardinal). Over the past six years, he’s built so many meaningful connections—and gained so many fans and followers—that he’s now got friends all over the state who are thrilled to put him up for the night when he’s on the road. “Iowa is super generous.”
Last year, Tyler started offering library talks about his local travels, complete with a photographic slide show, recitations of poetry, and, if the group is small enough, one-on-one conversations with the folks who attend. “People love it,” he says. Wanna hear his talk? Tell your local library!
A Slow Approach to the Finish
“Is there any part of you that’s going to be relieved when you’ve crossed every town off the list?” I ask Tyler before we part ways.
“No,” he says without hesitation. “Actually, the idea of being done makes me feel sad.” This runner is in no hurry. He plans to relax the pace, relish every final town, and finish this particular marathon in the next two years.
“If I had to guess how many cities I have left, I’d say about 25,” Tyler says, “but honestly I don’t want it to be a countdown. I don’t want that magic to disappear. I love Iowa. Every city is something special. Even when I see it’s run down, I see that happy side of it.”
“I have to ask. After you finish in 2027, what’s next?”
“I would love to do National Parks,” Tyler says. “It would be nice to have company, though.”
