Growing Greens, April 06 | Early Greens for Soup and Salad

BY KURT MICHAEL FRIESE

Greens are one of the most fascinating food groups. They offersuch tantalizing variety with their wide range for flavors, colors, shapes,and sizes. Every gardener has a favorite, from the sweet and subtle lamb’slettuce (or mache) to vibrant chicory and arugula.

If you got the early start on your soil that I recommended last month,you may already have the tiny little leaves of your prima vera, yourfirst greens, poking up through the surface of your garden. If not,it’s still not too late to get them in the ground. The key toa successful lettuce garden is variety, both in types and in time.

Choose a wide array of greens, and always be on the lookout for oneyou’ve never tried before. A favorite I discovered a few yearsback was a surprise discovery in one of those “field greens” mixedseed packets, which are handy and usually only require simple broadcastingand regular water. A little research led me to discover that the leafwas called tatsoi, and that it is actually not a lettuce but a formof Chinese cabbage that when young resembles spinach in texture andappearance, but is much sweeter.

Lettuce has shallow roots, so it should be hoed or cultivated carefully.Water it lightly and frequently to cause the leaves to develop rapidlyand you’ll get a higher quality lettuce. Don’t overwater,because especially in heavy soils, that can lead to disease, soft growth,and burning of the leaf margins. Organic mulches can help moderatesoil temperature and the microenvironment to produce quality lettucein less than ideal weather conditions.

Two things to watch out for are heat and cold extremes. Hard frostscan kill your greens, so watch the weather reports and cover your gardenovernight if a hard frost is expected. Around here they are possibleuntil around Mother’s Day.  April is a fickle month, soextreme heat is possible too, though unlikely. Screens and water canhelp, but too much heat will cause lettuce to become bitter and boltto seed.

Of course the most common use for your greens is in salads, but thereare other choices. Early kale is wonderful in soup, such as in therecipe below, and baby lettuces are delicious tossed into pasta atthe last minute with butter, pine nuts, and raisins. Never be afraidto experiment—you might discover a new favorite that you’vebeen missing out on.

Portuguese Kale Soup
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 pound Linguica sausage
(Portuguese sausage)
1 quart chicken broth
1 large onion, roughly diced
4 large potatoes, cubed
1 bunch kale, stemmed, washed,
and chopped
1-1/2 cups ditalini (or other small
tube-shaped pasta)
1 pound cooked red kidney beans
Salt and fresh ground black pepper
to taste

Remove casing from sausage and cut into half-inch pieces.
Heat oil in a heavy soup pot; sauté the sausage and onion justuntil the fat is rendered, about 3 to 5 minutes. Add other ingredientsexcept kale and pasta. Bring to boil and simmer 10 minutes.

Add kale and pasta, and simmer about 8 minutes until both are tender.
Taste for seasoning—depending on how spicy your sausage is, addsalt and pepper to taste.

Serve piping hot.

BY KURT MICHAEL FRIESE

Greens are one of the most fascinating food groups. They offersuch tantalizing variety with their wide range for flavors, colors, shapes,and sizes. Every gardener has a favorite, from the sweet and subtle lamb’slettuce (or mache) to vibrant chicory and arugula.

If you got the early start on your soil that I recommended last month,you may already have the tiny little leaves of your prima vera, yourfirst greens, poking up through the surface of your garden. If not,it’s still not too late to get them in the ground. The key toa successful lettuce garden is variety, both in types and in time.

Choose a wide array of greens, and always be on the lookout for oneyou’ve never tried before. A favorite I discovered a few yearsback was a surprise discovery in one of those “field greens” mixedseed packets, which are handy and usually only require simple broadcastingand regular water. A little research led me to discover that the leafwas called tatsoi, and that it is actually not a lettuce but a formof Chinese cabbage that when young resembles spinach in texture andappearance, but is much sweeter.

Lettuce has shallow roots, so it should be hoed or cultivated carefully.Water it lightly and frequently to cause the leaves to develop rapidlyand you’ll get a higher quality lettuce. Don’t overwater,because especially in heavy soils, that can lead to disease, soft growth,and burning of the leaf margins. Organic mulches can help moderatesoil temperature and the microenvironment to produce quality lettucein less than ideal weather conditions.

Two things to watch out for are heat and cold extremes. Hard frostscan kill your greens, so watch the weather reports and cover your gardenovernight if a hard frost is expected. Around here they are possibleuntil around Mother’s Day.  April is a fickle month, soextreme heat is possible too, though unlikely. Screens and water canhelp, but too much heat will cause lettuce to become bitter and boltto seed.

Of course the most common use for your greens is in salads, but thereare other choices. Early kale is wonderful in soup, such as in therecipe below, and baby lettuces are delicious tossed into pasta atthe last minute with butter, pine nuts, and raisins. Never be afraidto experiment—you might discover a new favorite that you’vebeen missing out on.

Portuguese Kale Soup
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 pound Linguica sausage
(Portuguese sausage)
1 quart chicken broth
1 large onion, roughly diced
4 large potatoes, cubed
1 bunch kale, stemmed, washed,
and chopped
1-1/2 cups ditalini (or other small
tube-shaped pasta)
1 pound cooked red kidney beans
Salt and fresh ground black pepper
to taste

Remove casing from sausage and cut into half-inch pieces.
Heat oil in a heavy soup pot; sauté the sausage and onion justuntil the fat is rendered, about 3 to 5 minutes. Add other ingredientsexcept kale and pasta. Bring to boil and simmer 10 minutes.

Add kale and pasta, and simmer about 8 minutes until both are tender.
Taste for seasoning—depending on how spicy your sausage is, addsalt and pepper to taste.

Serve piping hot.