On day two of distributing bundles of The Iowa Source a few months ago, I decided to take “the scenic route” from Ottumwa down to Van Buren County, cutting in toward the Des Moines River on Route 16.
The two-lane highway shoots down a tree-lined hill and swoops east right into the heart of Eldon, Iowa, a pretty (and pretty tiny) river town I’ve always had a soft spot for. Yes, it’s home to the American Gothic House (and Center), made famous of course by Grant Wood—and for a short while by Beth Howard’s homemade pies. Eldon is also the spot of my favorite family-owned greenhouse, Ostrander’s, where I buy all of the summertime flower babies I keep alive until I just can’t take it anymore—or they can’t. I’ll then console myself with a big cheesy burger at Chommy’s, just steps away from Eldon’s Rock Island Train Depot.
This particular day, cruising east down the main drag a few blocks past the historical Eldon Public Library, the most adorable library that exists anywhere, I had no real intention of stopping into town. But my peripheral vision suddenly snagged on a sign hanging over the entrance of a handsome brick building on West Elm, right next to the old opera house. In delicately scripted letters, two magic words flashed into my subconscious: Coffee & Curiosities. The back of my brain began to tingle, and my car involuntarily jerked into a parallel parking spot. I’m a sucker for a hot cup, especially on a grey kind of morning, which this was. And I was definitely curious.
I had unknowingly arrived at Necessities Mercantile, a new coffee spot, bakery, and home goods shop in downtown Eldon, where I was instantly welcomed by the aroma of freshly brewing beans and by the shop’s owners, Wendi and Eric Livingston. They stood together behind the counter like the famous Gothic couple itself—that is, if you replaced the pitchfork and scowling faces with aprons and actual smiles.
Newly restored from top to bottom—a massive labor of love that took almost two years—this beautifully refreshed shop features high-as-you-please ceilings, lots of room to breathe, lots of space to sit, and lots of pretty things for road-weary eyes to linger on—touchable wooden spoons, cottony kitchen linens, ceramic coffee mugs, a gorgeous collection of cookbooks, inviting stationery items and journals, and three (gulp!) freshly baked, unbelievably moist-looking cakes displayed under glass. The flavors of the day were French Apple, French Toast Casserole, and gluten-free Espresso Cake made with maple syrup. I ordered one of each, of course, with a cup of hot Joe, to go.
But “go” was the last thing I found I wanted to do. I was so enamored by the space, questions began pouring out of me. And Wendi and Eric were more than happy to share their tale.
Wendi summarizes their origin story perfectly on the Necessities Mercantile website, where you can also shop for goods online, should you choose. She writes, “We traveled around the world only to find our way … home.”
Wendi, an Eldon native, met Eric in the 1990. “A handsome Marine from Ottumwa,” she says, “he looked like he was going somewhere in life, and I wanted to go with him.”
In the 33 years Eric served in the Marine Corps—with nine deployments, four of them in combat—military life took the Livingston family all around the world. “It was a good life, not always easy,” reflects Wendi. “You learn to be flexible and resilient. You make friends quickly and often say goodbye two or three years later. But at some point all things come to an end.”
In June of 2020, Colonel Livingston felt it was time to retire, and with four kids mostly grown, the couple moved home to an Eldon farm they’d purchased a few decades previously‚ part of a long-term plan Wendi had been brewing up for quite some time. “In my mind,” she says, “I was going to have milk, eggs, bread, cheese—I was going to make the stuff on the farm, and then I wanted to have a little store where I would sell those items—that’s how I originally got the name Necessities—I wanted to provide the necessities.” Hold that thought.
“One morning, the summer of 2022, I woke up and knew I had to see about ‘that building,’” Wendi says, “the one I’d wanted in my heart for well over 10 years.” The Mike & Larry sandwich you can order at the counter is named after the men who, at last, agreed to sell her the property.
“I’ll just say, it was not move-in ready,” says Wendi. “I expected Eric to take one look at it and say, ‘I’m out.’ ”
“I just wanted to retire and farm,” adds Eric. But he pretty quickly found himself on board with the plan, and the couple went to work clearing the building of all oddments. They spent months hauling out enough old lumber scraps, parts, refuse, hardware, and appliances to fill a whole separate article. Then, with tools they had in their garage and limited skills, they began renovations—from knocking down walls and scraping the giant antique-tile ceiling by hand with a bristle brush to rebuilding the floor, which barely existed. “We got used to walking ‘The Plank,’” jokes Eric. Eric even took on replacing the floor joists by raising up the back of the building with car jacks. “I’m really lucky that he came home alive that day,” laughs Wendi.
More than a year and a half in, they decided to hire a professional team—a final necessary push—so they could, at last, get the doors open.
In the meantime, the business plan had evolved. What the “necessities” were in Wendi’s original vision had shifted to what the necessities were for the community.
“A few years back, there was this town-wide event,” says Wendi. “We knew a lot of people were going to be there, so we took a survey, and we asked people what they would wish to see in that space. ‘Coffee shop and bakery’ came up number one. It’s what everyone wanted.
“Where my heart is—is for my community. They want a place to gather. And that’s why we’re doing this.”
Wendi has fond memories of growing up in a vibrant, small town with a strong sense of community. “We used to have Whitey’s across the street—that’s where everyone met, from all walks of life,” says Wendi. “Whitey was such a gift to our community. When that left, part of our community died.”
“Wendi wanted to try and fill part of that void,” says Eric. “And we hope the community can not only enjoy it—but also build on it.”
Other new businesses that have moved into town—Ace Graphics screen-printing, Singleton’s Cafe, Denise’s Alterations, and the Raw Americana boutique and candle bar, just to name a few—share the same vision.
“Eldon has a lot to give; I think people are starting to see that,” says Wendi.
“I want people from my community to want to be here, but I want people from other communities to be able to come in and have that sense of belonging as well.” It seems to be working.
“It’s really fun making the drinks,” says Wendi, who admits that until recently she was never much of a coffee drinker. “But I especially enjoy meeting all the different types of people who come through town.” Like the couple from the Philippines who recently stopped in. “They took a wrong turn and ended up at the store,” says Wendi. “They stayed and talked with us for a while.” And a few weeks ago, a father and daughter riding their bikes from California to New York came in to get coffee. “I mean, how did these people find my little store in Eldon, Iowa!?” says Wendi. “That’s why I’m going to put out a guest book. I want to remember these moments and these stories.”
Let me just say: to meet Wendi is to be in the Wendi fan club. Introduce yourself, and you’ll see what I mean. She’s like your favorite sister. Or Mom. Or Aunt. Taking care of people comes naturally. Case in point: she was delighted to cut my pastries into bite-sized pieces so I could grab them with my fingers right out of the bag for safer highway snacking. The fact that I felt comfortable asking her to do so says it all.
While I waited for my latte to finish brewing, I perused the shop’s inventory, which branches out to home decor items, charming art supplies, and a handful of faith-based gifts. I purchased an engraved wooden placard for my home that was just my style: “I Quit Guilt.” Maybe someday it will be true. Until then, I’ll journal about it in the little flower-covered notebook I’m going to pick up next time I take myself on a writer’s date over there.
Necessities Mercantile, which officially opened last September, continues to evolve—from introducing more savory flavors on their menu (chicken salad sandwich, anyone?)—to collecting more Grant Wood artwork for their beautiful walls. The prints they’ve acquired thus far complement the light and airy interior palette: cream and deep sage, enhanced by the rosy hues of light wood and exposed brick. “Lots of coffee shops have a vibe, or a mood, which I love,” says Wendi. “We just went with happiness.”
Bring your family. Bring your knitting club. Bring your games. Bring your buddies. On a summer or autumn day, point your wheels toward the river and gather awhile at Necessities Mercantile.
Find out more at NecessitiesMercantile.com.
